Q:

 

What are some tips for eliminating bucking, and general carrying-on, while you're trying to canter a green horse? He gets so pumped up when I ask him to pick up speed- I try to not let him get his head down by keeping the reins taught, but he of course is able to pull them through my hands if he really wants to. Thanks a lot!

 


 

A:

 

First you have to understand why he is bucking going into the canter. The top three reasons are: 1) He can't extend out because the reins are too tight; 2) He is getting more anxious as the speed increases; and 3) The saddle is binding him up.

Now assuming you have checked saddle fit and it isn't hurting him let's tackle the other two. You stated that you "try to not to let him get his head down by keeping the reins taut". This probably isn't the whole problem but it can be part of it. With the reins taut he can't extend out his body to canter and is going to either throw a fit or short stride to protect his mouth. When he strides out in the canter he also stretches his neck and thereby his head and mouth. If your hands aren't moving freely with him, which on a green horse can sometimes be difficult because they are still trying to figure out how to move with you, he will be bumping into that bit. If you are using a snaffle bit you are probably pinching his bars so he gets his head way up to avoid that.

The first reason is the most common but, if not, the solution is still something you want to make sure you are implementing. His main problem is likely that he needs practice picking up speed. In other words, he needs practice in transitions. Luckily it's pretty easy to do. We already know he knows how to canter - just not with you on him. Before you begin you should be able to disengage your horse's hips easily. That is, pick up one rein and get him to move his hip around pivoting on one front foot. For example, if you pick up the left rein the horse's hip should move out the right while pivoting on the left front foot. Some people call this a one rein stop. This is what you are going to do if your horse gets "frisky". I also believe in doing things the right way as soon as possible. This means that when my horse canters I want him to do it in a collected manner. So therefore he should know how to collect before hand. It is not necessary but saves time in the long run and actually makes it easier for the horse.

Now on to the solution: First, work on your walk to trot transitions and back down. Here's how. Get out on the rail and walk the horse. If you can ask him to break at the poll and even collect up, great. At the very least I would hope that he understands how to soften up on the bit. So at the walk, with a break at the poll, I ask for a little more speed by squeezing my legs. As soon as he speeds up I release my legs. Then I ask him to slow down after about five strides. Then I repeat. I set him up for the increase in speed and then slow him down. I'll do this until he speeds up effortlessly and consistently. By speeding up and slowing down you are practicing your upward and downward transitions.

Next, I'll keep increasing the rate of speed and slowing down. What I mean is I will go from the walk to the trot and down. When that is good then I will work on the trot to extended trot and down. Then I will work on the extended trot to the "more" extended trot and back down. Soon he will break into the canter almost on his on and then slow him back down to the trot or walk. It is almost saying "go faster but don't canter" (kind of like reverse psychology). Once you have the transitions worked out you can gradually increase the amount of time you spend cantering but be careful not to burn him out on it.

The really interesting thing about this exercise is you can also use it to help people who are afraid to canter. By building speed and then slowing down you are raising that fear threshold higher each time. Lots of repetition is the key.

Good luck, wear a helmet and be safe.

~ Raye

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