In this series we are covering how to compost and use horse manure.  Last month’s installment included a design for building a simple compost bin for small acreage horse properties.  This month we provide a step-by-step guide to managing the 3-bin compost system.  Next issue we conclude our series with some trouble-shooting and a list of resources.

An important point to emphasize is that to properly compost you don’t need to have bins – you can easily accomplish the same process with just piles.  You manage the piles (tarping, watering, aerating, etc.) the same way as you would the bins.  

MANAGING THE COMPOST SYSTEM 

This includes tarping, turning and watering. Like most living things, the microorganisms that break down manure and bedding are aerobic (they need oxygen) and require water. Too much or too little of each can cause problems.

1.  Piling.  Begin by piling the daily manure and stall wastes in one bin. When that bin is as full as you want it, leave it to compost and start filling the second bin, and so on for the last bin. In 2 to 4 months the first bin should be done composting (more on how to tell if it’s finished in a minute!) and you can start using the finished compost from that bin.   In order to generate the heat that will kill parasites, pathogens and weed seeds, we need the compost to get hot--a minimum of 133 degrees for 3 days. Generating the heat requires a pile at least the size of a washing machine.

2. Cover your bins.  This can be done with a tarp, plastic sheet or a roof.  A cover of some sort will prevent your piles from becoming a soggy mess in the winter and too dried out in the summer.  Covering them also prevents the nutrients you're jealously guarding for your garden and pastures from being washed out into the creeks and water bodies of your area.

3.  Aeration.  Turning the compost-to-be allows oxygen to get to the bacteria and organisms that break down the material into dirt-like structures. This keeps the process aerobic, an “earthy” smelling process.  If the compost becomes anaerobic--without oxygen--it will have a foul, undesirable odor. How often you turn it determines how quickly your compost will be ready. However, unless you have access to a small tractor or enjoy a good workout, turning the pile can be difficult. Air will permeate through the pile to a depth of about 1 or 2 feet but will have difficulty reaching the center. An easy way to get air to the middle and avoid turning as frequently is to insert a couple of 5-foot PVC pipes into the center of the pile like chimneys. Use a drill to put holes along the length of the pipes, and remember, the pile will still need to be turned occasionally to get the manure on the outside into the center so the heat from the composting process can kill parasites and weeds.

4.  Water.  Your compost material should be about as damp as a wrung out sponge. In the summer, an easy way to add water is just to hose down the manure in your wheelbarrow before you dump it in the pile. Water your compost with a garden hose when you turn it.

5.  Finished compost.  Following the guidelines above, your compost should be ready in about two to four months, or a little longer in the winter.  Managing it carefully, turning it frequently and being sure it stays damp it will ensure that your stall waste composts quickly.  You will know your compost is ready when the material looks evenly textured, crumbly like dirt, dark in color and is 90 degrees or less in temperature.  

6.   Uses for compost.  Compost is a rich soil enhancement that improves the health of both plants and soil and helps to retain moisture. Spread compost in pastures during the growing season in a quarter- to half-inch layer, and no more then three to four inches in the same spot per season.  It can be also added to the soil of houseplants, gardens or flowerbeds , or shared with horseless neighbors.

Next month, learn about troubleshooting the composting process as well as useful resources for helping you with other manure management ideas.