In the first of our series we covered the reasons for having a manure management plan and how composting is beneficial. Last month we included instructions on how to build a simple backyard 3-bin system. This month we conclude with how to manage the 3-bin compost system and we have a list of resources for you.
A point to emphasize is that to properly compost you don't need to have bins - you can easily accomplish the same process with just piles. You manage the piles (tarping, watering, aerating, etc.) the same way as you would the bins.
MANAGING THE COMPOST SYSTEM
This includes tarping, turning and watering. Like most living things, the microorganisms that break down the manure and bedding are aerobic and require air and water. Too much or too little of each can cause problems.
1. Piling. Begin by piling the daily manure and stall wastes in one bin. When that bin is full leave it and start filling the second bin. And so on for the last bin. In 2 to 4 months the first bin should be finished composting. You can start using the compost from that bin.
2. Cover your bins. This can be done with a tarp, plastic sheet or a roof. A cover of some sort will prevent your piles from becoming a soggy mess in the winter and too dried out in the summer. Covering them also prevents the nutrients you're saving for the garden from being washed out into the surface water and causing other problems.
3. Aeration. Turning the compost-to-be allows oxygen to get to the bacteria and organisms that break down the material into dirt-like structures. This keeps the process aerobic, producing an "earthy" smell. If the compost becomes anaerobic -- without air -- it will have a foul, undesirable odor. How often you turn it determines how quickly your compost will be ready. However, unless you have access to a small tractor or enjoy a good workout, turning the pile can be difficult. Air will permeate through the pile to a depth of about 2 ft. An easy way to get air to the center and avoid turning the pile as frequently is to insert a couple of 5 ft PVC pipes into the center of the pile. Use a drill to put holes along pipes. The pile will still need to be turned occasionally to get the manure on the outside into the center so the heat from the composting process can kill parasites and weeds.
4. Water. Your compost material should be about as damp as a rung out sponge. In the summer water your compost with a garden hose when you turn it. An easy way to add water is just to hose down the manure in your wheelbarrow before you dump it in the pile.
5. Finished compost. If you follow the guidelines above, your compost could be ready in as short as one month! However, depending how often you turn it and whether it stays damp, it will probably take between one to three months to finish, perhaps slightly longer in the winter. You will know when your compost is ready when the material looks evenly textured and crumbly like dirt and no longer like the original material.
6. Uses for compost. Compost is a rich soil enhancement that improves the health of both plants and soil and helps to retain moisture. Spread compost in pastures during the growing season no more than a 1/2" layer at a time and 3 - 4" per season. It can be also added to the soil of houseplants, gardens or flowerbeds -- or shared with horseless neighbors.
Check out the resources listed below and seek help if you need it. But now, at least you will know that when manure happens you have a wonderful plan to make compost happen!
Good luck and good horsekeeping to you!
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Alayne Renee Blickle, a life-long equestrian and creator/director of Horses for Clean Water, is an environmental educator working with horse and livestock owners. Contact Alayne by email at ARBlickle@aol.com or visit the HCW website at www.horsesforcleanwater.com.
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For More Information on Composting
· Natural Resource Conservation Service works with farmers and ranchers on issues relating to wise use of the natural resources, such as pasture, manure and mud management. You can find the number for your NRCS office listed in the phone book under federal government, US Department of Agriculture, Natural Resource Conservation Service.
· Conservation Districts also work with farmers and livestock owners, often for smaller, non-commercial places on similar land management practices. You can contact your local Conservation District by calling the NRCS office. The NRCS will be able to tell you the name, location and phone number of your Conservation District.
· Cooperative Extension -- contact your county cooperative extension office to get more information on pasture and manure management for horses, as well as composting. They can be located in the phone book under your state land-grant university (if you have trouble locating them ask for help from your public library's reference librarian).
· Your county solid waste department may also be able to help you with more information on composting or other ideas for manure management. Many counties (or city solid waste departments) offer Master Composter classes, which although geared towards the backyard gardening-type composter, will still provide you with more information and understanding on the compost process. Other county programs may be available to assist you as a livestock owner.
· Many books are available on composting including On-Farm Composting Handbook, a good source for information on agricultural composting. Healthy Horses, Clean Water: A Guide to Environmentally Friendly Horsekeeping is available in the King, Snohomish, Mount Vernon and Whatcom library systems. This manual includes chapters on mud, manure, pasture, and wildlife management with detailed sections on resources, laws & more. You can also download it for free at http://www.wa.gov/puget_sound/Programs/Agriculture.htm.
