Last month we began a series on managing manure that covers five options including advantages, disadvantages and equipment and materials needed. This month we begin with on-site options for manure managing including spreading straight manure and composting.
Manure Management Option One: Store manure and stall waste and apply it back to pastures at least two times per year during the growing season.
Advantages: Applying manure back to pastures creates a natural nutrient cycle and saves you money -- one horse produces about $150 in fertilizer value each year. This method is also fairly easy and labor efficient.
Disadvantages: Since you are not composting the manure and stall, waste worm eggs are not killed – be sure to maintain a good deworming program. You will need to have access to a manure spreader and tractor (TIP: check around in your area; you may be able to hire someone locally to do this for you). If your stall waste contains a high percentage of shavings and very little manure, you may have too high of a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. If so, the decomposing shavings rob nitrogen from the soil. This adversely affects the surrounding pasture plants and turns your pasture yellow. In this case, you may want to mix an extra source of nitrogen such as bloodmeal, fish fertilizer, steer or chicken manure or straight nitrogen fertilizer (such as 23:0:0) to the stall waste as you spread it. Check with your local conservation district for more information or help in determining the correct proportions needed. If you only have a small pasture, consider combining this option with Options Three and Four (next month) as well.
What you’ll need/how to implement this option: For this option, you will need a storage area or bunker appropriately-sized for the number of horses you have and the amount of stall waste produced. A cement pad with three walls would be the best but a convenient, dry area will do. The storage area should be covered with either a roof or tarp to prevent the nutrients you are trying to save for the pastures from being leached out and causing environmental problems. Choose the location of this area so it is accessible for chores as well as for the necessary equipment. To spread it you’ll most likely need a tractor with a bucket and a manure spreader. The tractor should be able to load and pull the manure spreader (you will have to unhook the manure spreader each time that you load it, then re-hook it to take it where you want to spread it). Only spread during the growing season (late spring to early fall) to prevent unused nutrients from being washed away and causing an environmental problem.
Manure Management Option Two: Compost manure and stall waste and apply it to pastures, gardens, flowerbeds, etc.
Advantages: Composting manure and stall waste has several benefits. It reduces the possibility of parasite reinfestation in your horse because the heat generated in the composting process kills worm eggs as well as pathogens and weed seeds. It reduces flies by eliminating their breeding ground and killing larva. It reduces odors – a properly composting manure pile should not have odors (or flies) but should smell warm and earthy. Composting reduces the volume of material you have piled up by about 50%. This means instead of a 6-foot high pile you would end up with about 3 feet – a more manageable amount. Composting provides you with a free, easy source of compost – a valuable soil amendment for your pastures, garden, yard or horseless neighbors. Compost improves the “tilth” or health of your soil. It adds back microorganisms, improves the moisture carrying capacity, and adds nitrogen in a form that plants can more easily use, and is less likely to be washed out and cause an environmental problem.
Disadvantages: It requires a certain amount of regular labor and diligent oversight. If you are spreading the finished product by hand on gardens, flowerbeds or small pastures, it requires a certain amount of labor and interest in gardening-type projects. If you spread a larger quantity on pastures you will need to have access to a manure spreader and tractor (TIP: check around in your area; you may be able to hire someone to do this for you).
What you’ll need/how to implement this option: Composting is actually a simple process that can be accomplished in a “backyard” situation with either simple bins or piles managed in a convenient, dry area (visit the HCW website www.horsesforcleanwater.com for a tip sheet on composting). For larger operations or greater convenience, a cement pad with three walls or two large cement bins would be optimal. The compost should be covered with either a roof or a tarp to prevent the pile from getting too wet or too dry. You will also need access to water – compost needs to stay as damp as a wrung-out sponge. Composting is an aerobic process and piles can be aerated either actively (turning by hand or with a tractor) or passively (by placing chimney-like pipes into the center of the pile or laying pipes across the bottom). The passive aeration system works simply and effectively for smaller operations. You will know your compost is ready when it has reduced in volume by about 50%. The material should look evenly textured and crumbly like soil, no longer distinguishable as the original material. Compost is best applied during the growing season. If you have a manageable quantity, you can even spread it by hand with a manure fork or shovel and the aid of a riding lawnmower and small cart. For larger proportions, a manure spreader and a tractor make the task easy and quick.
Next month we look at two useful off-site options for managing manure. Until then, good horsekeeping to you!
Copyright © 2008 The NW Horse Source, LLC
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