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Horse training and general behavior:
Veterinary Care:
Equine Insurance: Labels: Ask the Experts
Ask the Expert: Allison Trimble
 Allison has a B.S. in Animal Science from Cal Poly, SLO. Since her graduation in 1999, Allison and her family have been actively involved in the reining, cutting and cowhorse industry. Coastal Equine has made a name for itself both in the show pen and in the breeding barn. Allison has made her mark on the performance horse world as a finalist in NRCHA SBF Futurity, IRCHA Int. Non Pro Futurity Champion, SRCHA Derby Champion, NWRCHA Non Pro Futurity Champion, NWRCHA Non Pro and Open Bridle Champion, NWRCHA Non Pro Hackamore Champion, NRCHA Non Pro Hackamore and Limited Open and Non Pro Bridle Region Champion, numerous year end championships, and multiple time world show qualifier and finalist.
She encourages her clients to do the work to become the rider and competitor they can be. For more information on her program go to www.coastalequine.com.
I look forward to your questions! Labels: allison trimble, Ask the Experts
Ask the Expert: Michelle Binder
 Michelle Binder is the founder of Relational Riding Academy, a program that utilizes dressage as fundamental training for all horses performing in all disciplines. A rider for 40 years, Michelle first competed English and Western rail horses in Washington, then Thoroughbred Hunters in Kentucky. In 1987 she began pursuing Combined Training though USCTA Novice and Training levels. She settled into dressage in the Pacific Northwest in 1995. Over the years Michelle trained extensively with Sue Sherry of Michigan. She has participated in clinics and instructors workshops with many well known instructors, including Sally Swift, Mary Wanless, Gerhard Politz, Jeff Cook, Dr. Rudolph Vlatten and, most recently, Claus Bergener, GraND Prix Judge for the GNEF.
In addition to being an ARIA certified instructor since 1989, Michelle has been a professional trainer since 1994. In the 1997 show season, Michelle finished “V.P. Medly” 5th in the nation in USDF All Breed Awards for Arabian Sport Horses and 26th in the nation for all breeds. In 2006, “A Perfect Mr. Re” finished 8th in the nation in the AACAP Awards for Appaloosas in dressage. In 2007, King of Broken Hearts, a four year old Appaloosa stallion qualified for the ApHC World Show, trained and ridden almost exclusively by Michelle for Vision Quest Ranch.
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Question: I have my beautiful Arab cross mare Luna that we have been working off and on again, since discovering she can now tolerate being ridden. I can get her stretching beautifully into the bridle, compacting her body, bringing her back up, and LOTS of SWING! Now when asking for canter that's a different story. She pins her ears, and kicks out at the wall, drops her back and rushes into the bit. When asking I squeeze my ankle bones together, and lift my inside seat bone, she's not happy about it. Is there another method that we can try? She is canters on the lunge in side reins beautifully, perhaps she needs more time to develop the loin. What are your thoughts? Thanks!
Answer: Thank you for your question. It seems like this mare has a history of going to work and being laid off for some reason, then being brought back into work. You are not specific about why she has had a history of difficulty under saddle. If you have exhausted your resources looking for lameness issues from your local veterinarians, equine chiropractors, farriers and massage therapists and she has been given a clean bill of health, you may have training issues to work through that developed during injury and attempts to recover her. Even if she is now not in pain, behavior problems can remain after recovery from back injury or trauma that caused her to become difficult.
It is important to look at our approach to training in cases like this. We can be tempted to rush through work too quickly when things are going well. If she is being good at the trot, let her work at a trot for several weeks, even up to three months, before you begin your canter work under saddle. Use your longe work to develop her balance, strength and fitness for the canter while you develop her carrying capacity under saddle at the trot. Use ground pole work and little jumps (12-inch crossbars) on the line to get her using her loin correctly in the canter. Practice many transitions on the line betweeen trot and canter until they are smooth and she carries herself equally well through both the up and down transitions.
When you start to ask for the canter under saddle, use your half seat to lighten your seat on her back. Don't try to drive her into the canter by getting behind her and driving your seat into her back to "push" her into it. Instead, get up off the horse's back and use your legs by bumping her with your anklebones instead of "squeezing." Too strong and steady a pressure might be causing you to pinch with your knees and accidently shut down the forward motion. A tap with your whip can help bring her into the canter if you are not effective with your legs. To help her stay balanced into the canter transition, you can ride a leg yield exercise and ask for the canter as you complete the leg yield either on the straight line or on the circle. Go quarterline to the wall and depart as you approach the corner, or ride a 20-meter circle, spiral into the 10-meter and leg yield out with your depart happening before you get back out to the 20-meter circle. It may take some carefully planned and strategically arranged departs for her to learn that there is no pain and that she can step smoothly into the canter under saddle. Hope these ideas help!
Michelle
Question: How do I find a qualified trainer and instructor for a horse and my 10 year old daughter? I live in Pendleton, OR.
Thank you! Rhonda
Answer: It can be difficult to find a really qualified trainer. Certification is one possible answer. People who have taken the time to become certified have made a commitment to their work. I recommend looking for an instructor that is ARIA certified. If your daughter's interest is in dressage, look for a USDF certified instructor. In some areas neither of these organizations have representatives, but you may be able to find a CHA certified person who will have your daughter's safety in mind. In the absence of a certified trainer in your local area, you can consider bringing in a qualified trainer to do clinics and lessons for yourselves as well as a group of people seeking similar instruction. This can be more reasonable than you think and just requires a little online research and a few phone calls. If setting up a regular clinic situation is not feasible, go to the local shows and listen at ringside. As you hear coaching from the sidelines, listen for the trainers to say things that resonate positively with you for your daughter's learning experience. Watch how the horses go in the ring, and seek a trainer whose students appear to be having safe, pleasant rides and whose horses appear happy and sound. If there are no show venues in your area, talk to your local feed stores and veterinarians. The vets should be familiar with who is training competently in your area.
We rely on our relationships with our vets for referrals, and the vet community may be able to direct your search. Finally, seek out the 4-H Extension Service program in your area for recommendations for leaders, clubs and knowledgeable horsemen and women in your area.
Once you have some names of people to check out, call. Set up a meeting with the instructors that return your phone calls and handle you and your questions in a professional way. Visit the facility. Regardless of the age of the place, it should be neat and well kept with safety issues well handled. The horses should be in good flesh, tack in good repair, and the arena environment clean. Ask if you can watch some lessons to see what the trainer is doing with the riders. Make sure that your daughter is properly outfitted with a riding helmet, hard soled shoes or boots with a heel and long pants. Please, work with people who insist on safety and proper tack and attire for riding. Lessons should be safe, fun and educational and can be a great adjunct to young lives!
~Michelle
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Question: The number of bits available for riders boggles my mind. What are the appropriate bits for dressage in the lower levels? What do you use when you move up to a double bridle? Is there a metal or alloy horses like the taste or feel of better? What should I look for from the horse when evaluating a bit? Does a fat bit feel better than a smaller (sharper on the tongue) bit to the horse?
~Gail
Answer: Hi Gail,
Because of the literally mind-boggling number of bits on the market, this is a complicated question that shows you are thinking about the well-being of your horse. The best answer for the first point you make is in referring you to the USDF Rule Book for dressage (go to www.usdf.org for more information). In it, you will find a complete list as well as diagrams of the types of snaffles that are considered acceptable for dressage training and competition. It may take some experimentation to find out which bit your horse works best in, but the snaffle is your best choice for dressage, and in fact ALL training at the lower levels. No conversation should be had about the bitting or fitting of the double bridle until the horse is confirmed in the third level movements, so I recommend leaving that question until your horse is much further along in training.
There are many materials manufacturers are using to make mouthpieces. From sweet iron and copper to Aurigan, mouthpieces taste different and have different effects on the horse. The cowboys of old swore on sweet iron; copper is supposed to promote a "wet" mouth; other alloys are said to produce particular effects. I try to look for the right kind of foam, a bit that does not pinch the corners of the lips, one that the horse is happy to be soft and light in, and one that fits the horse's mouth. Responses to poor bit choice can range from head tossing, stiffness in the poll, stiffness of the jaw, sores on the tongue, lips or bars, as well as inability to bend or to have the appropriate bit response. The conformation of the horse's mouth can also influence your choice of bits. Some horses have relatively low palettes and require low ports in the curbs we choose. These horses may also prefer French links, Dr. Bristols or lozenge link snaffles that don't "nutcracker" upward against the palette. Some horses have thick, fleshy lips that make using higher diameter snaffles problematic, and for them, the thinner mouthpiece is more comfortable. Small-muzzled horses may be more comfortable in slightly smaller diameter mouthpieces because the large diameter snaffles and curbs keep them from closing their jaws comfortably. It is also very important to remember that the bit is only as severe as the operator and ANY bit in the wrong hands can inflict pain or cause discomfort in the horse's mouth. Riders must take care to educate themselves so that the simplest bit can be used to best effect.
~Michelle
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Question: When working with a rehab project that is green (and off the track) would you ride the horse with a sore back and work to stretch and strengthen his unsoundness while riding or rehab from ground work and PT until his soreness is resolved. The horse's legs are sound and he has a good mind. Caveletti, walking hills, with short (10 step) backing sets (uphill)have been introduced as part of his rehab in ground work.
Answer: The approach you are taking in working the horse carefully from the ground first to rehabilitate the topline I believe is correct. At RRA, we would look at why the horse's back is sore. We use massage and chiropractic extensively in the program and a horse that comes in like this would be given an assessment by both professionals. Massage can help relax tight muscles and loosen areas that are holding tension that shouldn't be. Making sure the spine is aligned and the sacrum is straight and level, the ribs are all "in" and the neck and poll are in proper shape is critical in these cases. The things that you are already doing as part of his PT are all great, with cautions about moderation on the backing. Make sure that the horse's withers don't drop as he is working backwards and that the legs move as equal diagonal pairs as he steps.
Before we ride a horse with back problems that have already manifested soreness, we longe. For some, we use side reins adjusted lightly to help the horse learn to reach over the top and push the poll forward to help elongate the neck and elevate the back. It is critical that you do not force the head in tightly or overflex the neck, but rather that you allow the horse to relax the head and neck forward, out and down. For others, we use a combination of side reins and a "butt rope" in a modified Pessoa Longeing System to help connect the back end over the top to the front end.
Be careful that your adjustments are correct whenever you use any kind of equipment to help your horse change his way of going, and always be safe! Cavaletti work on the longe is wonderful for horses overcoming back pain. Some other techniques you might try are TTeam Touch exercises advocated by Linda Tellington Jones like the sternum lift and the tail tuck, magnetic therapy (we use a "Mag-Boy" by Nikken) and LEPT (infrared equipment by Bio-Scan) treatments, which can also help restore mobility to a damaged topline. These are all hands-on therapies that are relatively inexpensive and that you can do yourself with just your hands and simple equipment.
Once the horse lets us brush and massage the long back muscles, has been given the all clear by veterinarian/chiropractor, can release the back upward in the belly lifts and seems reasonably pain-free, we will begin light riding. For horses with back pain, forward, downward stretching is critical to their rehab. When we start riding, we might choose a nicely balanced western saddle with a therapeutic foam pad as well as a sweat rug and thick cushy pad. We longe with the saddle before riding and when we sit on the horse, even if we are riding western, use a light forward seat to encourage stretching down. The opening rein work shown in the new DVD "any Horse, any Rider" is ideal for this kind of rehab. When the neck reaches forward, the nuchal ligament helps the entire upward ligamentous system stretch and elongate the topline, and strengthen the underline. This allows proper engagement of the haunches. For a better understanding of how the horses musculoskeletal system works, read "Tug of War: Classical vs. Modern Dressage" by Dr. Gerd Heuschmann.
So the important elements are the chiropractic and the riding technique you use to rehabilitate your horse. I acknowledge your courage and thoughtfulness in taking on a TB rehabilitation project like this. With good work and conscientious application of good techniques, your horse should recover and be a good partner for you!
~Michelle
* * * Sample Q&A Question: You once told me that there was no such thing as leg yield in canter. Why not? What about the definition of LY doesn't apply to canter? What about spiraling in/out on the circle, which, BTW is helping 'W' a lot these days in her canter work.
Answer: Sue answered the same question for me once a long time ago. I will tell you what she told me: While it IS possible to perform a "leg yield" at the canter, (I believe this statement was immediately followed with "Why would you want to?"), the mechanics of the gait make it likely to be nothing more than a loss of balance out the outside shoulder. While it can serve to loosen the shoulders, it does so by a stepping away of the front leg that produces a loss of support for the torso and subsequently a loss of elevation, rather than producing more engagement and elevation. The answer has to do with the leading front and hind legs being on the same side rather than on diagonal sides as they are in the trot. Remember, the leg yield is an engaging exercise and a disengaging one at the same time. Leg yield at the canter tends to unload the carrying hind leg and opens the front leg away from the midline. So as with our discussion of other lateral work, we have to remember what we are trying to do with balance, engagement and suppleness, as well as what we are NOT trying to do. In canter it is better to ride the shoulder-fore, half pass and the counter canter rather than to push the horse out the outside shoulder.
Spiraling in and out on the circle works (if it is working) because we increase bend and engagement and this causes the horse to step more under with the inside hind leg, which increases jump. As long as the spiral out happens with a straight horse stepping into the outside rein and the spiral in comes from the outside as much as from the inside (also with a straight horse), the exercise develops bend and balance as well as straightness and jump by loading the outside hind on the spiral in and the inside hind on the spiral out.
As with all the exercises, you should maintain what the exercise gave you when you leave the exercise and continue normal working canter. It is here that we see the benefit the exercise had.
Modernists work the "leg yield at canter" because it causes the sideways "flip'n'flash" popular in the competition arena. Classicists do not perform the leg yield at canter because it can cause disorganization and disconnection rather than increase balance, connection and collection, important classical concepts.
Labels: Ask the Experts, michelle binder
Ask the Expert - Rich Maggard
 Rich Maggard has been actively breeding and showing horses since 1972. His “passion” has always been halter horses, but he has been involved in all aspects of the equine industry, from the racetrack to the mountain trails. He began his insurance career in 1978 and spent more than 20 years underwriting some of the nation’s largest farm and ranch accounts. He founded West Coast Equine Insurance Services in 2000, when he recognized the need for an equine specialty agency with actual hands-on experience in the horse world. Rich resides in Chiloquin, Oregon with his wife, Becky, and 22 head of horses. He still stands two appaloosa stallions, and continues to show throughout the United States.
Learn more about Rich and West Coast Equine Insurance Services at www.wcequine.com
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Labels: Ask the Experts, rich maggard
Ask the Expert: Raye Lochert
 In the vast sea of horsemanship clinicians today, Raye is considered one of the most accessible teachers you will find. His approachable demeanor allows for a much higher level of learning with his clients. For years Raye has been learning better and more efficient ways to work with horses by watching everyday horse people and horses and working with world renowned horsemen and women including John and Josh Lyons. He has taken this knowledge and developed his own style of teaching that truly sets him apart."No problem is too small and no question is too silly," says Raye. A natural teacher, he is always willing to help people who want to achieve clear and consistent communication with their horses. For more information on Raye Lochert and his schedule, visit http://www.rlhorsemanship.com/. *****
Question:So I got this new horse, and he is half Morgan and half Appaloosa and stands about 18 hands high. He is big and bulky enough to pull a wagon, however, 'Spyder Man' hasn't ever even seen a wagon or carriage before in his life and he is 16 years old now. Is there any possible way to train him to pull one without him reacting hysterically? Because he is a very claustrophobic horse and I feel that he may feel confined pulling something, and I am worried I haven't got the training ability yet to teach him how to pull one. Is there anything you can recommend for me and my horse 'Spyder Man'? --Cassie Answer:Can ‘Spyder Man’ be trained to pull a wagon at 16 years old? Sure. Can you do it? That’s up to you. Teaching a horse to pull wagons is usually best left to a professional. So many things could go wrong that having a pro do it is a good idea. What you can do is all the prep work prior to sending him to a driving trainer. The prep work is primarily sacking out and getting him used to pulling or dragging objects. When I say objects, I mean tires, tarps, boat bumpers and even little red wagons. Teaching a horse to drag objects not only increases the fun you can have with your horse but it makes him more stable, finished and useful. A horse that has been taught to drag things won’t flip out when an object gets hung up in his tail or when something is sliding along the ground towards it. You will also be able to drag objects such as branches off the trail or wood to the fire campsite. The possibilities are endless. [Editor's note: Raye's December 2008 column will detail how to safely train your horse to drag objects such as those mentioned above, but the process is complex and cannot be detailed in the space allotted here. Please always keep safety first with your horse, and when in doubt, work with a professional.] *** Question:Hi Raye, During your clinic at Cowboy Campsite in Sedro Woolley, WA you worked with me on keeping my horse in the bridle. We did this by working on the transitions. This is a great exercise but I'm still not positioning my hands properly. One of my challenges is not feeling the motion of the horse with my hands and setting a rigid boundary so my horse constantly bumps into the bit. This causes her to throw her head to avoid getting jabbed. This problem occurs at the mostly at the lope. I can't seem to find the correct rhythm or cadence with my hands. Do you have any suggestions? Answer:
Hi K., Thanks for your question. Getting your horse "in the bridle" or soft is an exercise in patience, timing, and feel. Lucky for you, you have two out of three at least. The one that will come is timing. While riding your horse at the walk ask for your horse to collect up through his neck. What he should do is lower his head and arch his neck as if to bring his mouth closer to his chest. You do this by picking up the reins with just enough pressure to make him change what he is doing. Then release when his head is where you want it. Remember to release with your elbows and not with your hands. Having your elbows come forward releases the pressure on the reins. Problems that may occur are that he may raise his head or lower his head too much. This is easy to fix by either lifting up on the reins if his head is too low or holding steady pressure if his head is too high. Another problem is that he may drop his head to where you want it but then throw it right back up when you release. Kind of like a yo-yo. Here is where you need your timing. With practice you will find your timing comes quickly. When your horse raises his head you will pick up the reins. When he lowers it you will release it. Pretty soon it will be like you barely have to pick it up before he lowers his head. When he is consistent with his head at the walk you will then move to the trot. Don't rush it. Make sure everything is solid at the lower gait before moving to the next. When you have your horse "in the bridle" at the walk ask him to speed up to the jog or trot. As he speeds up he will fall apart and lift his head up and get heavy on the bit. This is because of two reasons. He has not learned to balance himself during the transition and he will get nervous. In the beginning all horses get nervous when you increase the speed. This is natural. As soon as you feel him fall apart then you bring him back down to the walk and start over. With repetition he will learn that raising his speed is not a reason to get nervous and he will learn to balance himself. It will take some time. Remember, horses live to be about 30. How many years do you have left to teach this skill? Don't rush it. Enjoy it. Once your horse is transitioning from the walk to the trot nicely then you are ready to work on the trot to lope or canter transition. Here things change a little. As before get your horse "set up" for the transisiton. Soften his face, have him hold it there and then add your outside leg about four inches back from where it would be if you where just riding. Don't kick, but rather squeeze. While doing this loosen the reins up so the horse can stride out and not run into the bit. His head will be stuck out but that's okay for now. Just let him lope for about 5 strides and then bring him back to the trot. Repeat this many times. What you are trying to do is get him comfortable with the acceleration. When horses accelerate their emotions go up. In other words they get excited. When this happens they tend to fall apart. By speeding up and then slowing down you are getting them excited and then calming them down. The more you do this the more they realize they don't need to get excited. As this happens they become more balanced and fluid in their transition. The key is to take all the time you need to set them up for a great transition. If you transition up when they are out of position then you set them up to fail. Once you accomplish the smooth transition up and downward then you are ready to let the horse lope longer. Remember you were only letting them go for about five strides. When you let them go longer you let them go 10 strides. At this point what you want to do is transition back to the trot before your horse gets too excited. Don't worry if you let the horse go too long, just try not to. What you are doing at this point is bumping up the panic threshold. Keep working on it until the horse lopes smoothly for a couple of laps. Once you have accomplished this then you are ready to move on to the next step. The next step is to get the collected lope. While loping you will use the inside rein to bump the horse's head down and to the inside. Now when I say to the inside I mean his poll should be two to four inches off center to the inside. As soon as his head drops then stop bumping. Notice this time instead of holding steady even pressure you are bumping. This is because if you hold steady even pressure you will be banging on the horse's mouth. As a horse lopes they have to stride out. That stride includes extending the neck. If you are leaning on the reins when the horse extends that neck you will be banging on his mouth with every stride. To protect himself he will raise his head and shorten his stride. When this happens he becomes very choppy and there is no pleasure in riding a choppy horse. Not for you and not for the horse. With time and patience you will have a horse that will transition smoothly without tossing his head and one that is soft on the bit. Good luck and have fun. Raye Question:My husband and I have just purchased a 5 year old quarter horse mare that we had test ridden several times before purchasing in an enclosed arena. Now that we have her at our place, riding in larger areas, she seems to travel slightly sideways while trotting and cantering. The bit seems to be resting evenly in her mouth... any suggestions? It is a slow "migration" sideways, not a fast pull, so it is hard to tell what is going on. ~Teresa Answer:Hi Teresa- Thanks for your question. First, if you haven't already done so, have your vet take a look and eliminate any possible source of pain. Chiropractic is not out of the question. Also, check the teeth and saddle fit. If the vet visit doesn't solve your horse’s problem, then you most likely have a directional control problem. Traveling in a straight line is a perfection of left and right turns. So to get a straight line or a consistent turn of direction you need to work on your turns. There are a few ways to do this. The first way is to climb on your horse and go into a trot. While trotting, ask your horse to change directions every couple of seconds. Don't ride in a pattern, but rather just make a lazy scribble in the area you are riding. Your focus should be on making smooth turns at first. Look for softness in your horse's neck. Once your turns are going smoothly, start asking for your horse to break at the poll. In the beginning, work with just one rein at a time, switching back and forth. Then you can go to using two reins but always allowing some slack in the outside rein. Once your horse is keeping her head down when changing directions, allow her to go straight. As long as she continues to go straight, let her. If she starts to drift in or out or speed up, go back to changing directions. After a couple changes let her go straight again. Keep working this until she moves at a consistent speed and direction. You can use this to perfect circles as well. The most common thing to be aware of is the horse anticipating the change of direction. If this happens, ask the horse to go back in the direction you were going to switch from. For example, if you are traveling to the right and you release the rein to go left and your horse immediately starts to head to the left, ask her to go back to the right. You want to make sure your horse turns only when you ask her - not because she thinks you are going to ask her. This exercise can take a few days to get consistent. Once it is, you can move on. For this next exercise you will need 8 cones. Set the cones up in pairs about 3 to 4 feet apart. Two pairs will be in line with each other about 20 feet apart and the other two pairs will be set up the same way but perpendicular to the previous pairs. It kind of looks like the outline of a stop sign with the cones on the top, bottom, left and right points. The rule in using the cones is that you can only enter or exit through a pair of cones. Once you enter a set of cones you can go straight, right or left to exit through another set of cones. When entering or exiting a set of cones you must be straight. This is actually harder than it sounds. It will force you to work on controlling your horse's body through the hips or the shoulders. While riding, refrain from making the same turn over and over again. Change it up. Create a situation where the horse has to listen to you. Both of these exercises will help in creating speed and directional control. Ride for 15 to 20 minutes at a time then give your horse a break and do something else. Turn on a stereo and listen to music but always focus on what you are doing. Have fun with it! Thanks again for the question. Raye **** Question:Things have changed vastly since I was involved w/horses some 21 years ago. After a long absence due to family etc., I recently purchased a 4 1/2 yr. old gelding ex-race horse, 15.3, smart! His general Dressage training is coming well, starting everything from scratch assuming he knows nothing. He has quirks...tried charging me on the lunge line (I did Join Up and reinforce that periodically, assuming he's a bit more alpha), I charged back with enforcement the final time and he's been quite lovely since. Yesterday, I saw this one coming over several days, he lifted his hind leg while in cross ties and pinned his ears (made the face) and threatened a kick while grooming. My question is this...with all the changes/understanding of body language...what would/should be the "proper" reaction/discipline?? What I DID do was become large (only 5'2"), growled and flew at him with one whack, he pulled back, forward, large eyed but did not break the ties. Then stood like a rock thereafter. I've read where I should ask for submission by backing, head lowering...need a good routine to follow for any vice/smart alec behavior. Thank you! Beth Right or wrong, is there an better way, more appropriate? Answer:Hi Beth- Thanks for the e-mail. As far as I can see you did everything right and I’m really happy to hear it. Too often I hear of horror stories where this type of behavior has been "creeping up" but nothing has been done until it is too late. These days’ horse owners try to "understand" the horse. Therefore, they make excuses or take the blame themselves for something the horse did. The reality of it is the horse is an instinctual animal that lives in a herd. Now you can play any way you want to but if you’re not going to be a leader then the horse will assume the role. I’m not saying that you need to show the horse who is boss by bullying them or abusing them but when a horse gets out of line and human safety is at risk then it is your job to correct the situation. In most cases reasoning doesn't work. When it comes to disciplining horses I have a few rules. 1) I “discipline” a horse for only 3 types of behavior: Biting, rearing and kicking. As far as other unwanted behaviors, I prefer to make the right thing easy and the wrong thing hard. 2) When implementing the discipline don’t use anything that you put on the horse (halter, headstall, etc.). If you do they soon won't let you put that item on them. 3) Don’t use anything that will physically damage the horse such as shovels, 2 x 4's, etc. I find a dressage whip works really well. When disciplining a horse my preference is to hit them where they are covered by sport boots, saddle, etc. But if you have to hit hide it may cause a pretty good sting but it won't cut or break bones. 4) No matter what you CANNOT go after the head. Anything from the shoulder to the back of the horse. I prefer the shoulders. 5) You have only three seconds from the instance of the bad behavior to the start of your discipline and ONLY three seconds of discipline. Anything after three seconds and the horse won't associate what they did with what you are doing. Doing it any longer than three seconds is abuse in my book. So for 3 seconds I pretty much make the horse think I’ve gone insane. The trick is to get the horse to associate the bad behavior with your response so that the next time your horse thinks about doing something like rearing they will think twice. I work with a lot of new horse owners and a lot of people who have very little experience with horses. Invariably I will have someone who wants to "feel" for the horse. They want to treat it as if it were a kitten, puppy or even a child. They try to understand what the horse is thinking and try to reason with the horse. They make up excuses for the horse such as "he is playful" or "she just doesn't understand". They place human emotions on the horse. Usually they explain these things to me as they are getting walked on, pushed, or pulled. When I step in and take control of their horse they think I am being "too picky" by expecting the horse to hold still and stay out of my space. With the more assertive horses I have to resort to much firmer methods to keep the horse out of my space. What has to be remembered is that these animals are insecure by their very nature. They are built to run fast. They weigh about 1,000 pounds and they are a lot of muscle. A dog may jump on you but the most they may do is knock you over. When a horse jumps on you they are going to break bones. When you are out sized and out matched you have to depend on rules. Rules are enforced with firmness and fairness. You can love your horse to death, but be sure they don't return the favor. Raye **** QuestionI have just gotten a 3-yr-old mare and started to break her. things were going great until I asked her to go. When I got her I thought that she would be the one I would fight with to SLOW DOWN... not to go. Its a fight to even get her to walk! I am trying to train for cutting and barrels...but do you have any advice? Answer
Hi Marian, To get your horse to move out you have to be consistent. This problem happens more often than you would think. First, if your horse is just being ridden for the first few times, try disengaging the hip to help her get moving. To start, pick up your left rein and bring it up to your belly button. Use enough pressure to bring the nose around to the left, encouraging the hip to move to the right and vice versa on the other side. Once the hip is moving right and left, release sooner. Start rewarding the thought. In other words, as soon as you feel it about to move release the rein. Soon your horse will walk out forward after moving the hip. The reason your horse walks out forward is because you have created movement by moving the hip. Encourage this movement. You can use other pressure cues such as clucking or kissing to help get the movement. If your horse only moves its hip over, and then stops, gently use your legs to encourage movement (if your horse will tolerate this). If your horse has been ridden several times and just does not want to move off, then there are several ways to approach this. The way I like to work on it is by practicing my stops. Sounds backward, doesn’t it? Well, when you practice stops you have to practice starts as well. Start at one end of the arena and ask your horse to go forward. Walk three steps and stop. Relax. Repeat. When asking your horse to go, start with a kiss. Keep kissing until the horse walks out. If he doesn’t walk out off the kiss, keep kissing and squeeze with your leg. Still not moving out? Keep kissing and start bumping with your calves. Next level of pressure would be to keep kissing and bump with your heels. After that, you would increase the amount of force until the horse walks off. If need be, you can use a dressage whip as a last resort. It is important that you use this progression of force each time so the horse will learn to respond to the lesser pressure. If you go straight to the highest amount of pressure, then you have nothing to fall back to. When applying the pressure, it has to be rhythmic and fairly steady. You don’t want to kick once and wait, but rather kick, kick, kick…until the horse starts to move off, and then stop the kicking immediately. The more consistent you are about getting what you’re asking, for the better your result will be. If you kick three times and give up, then you will have taught your horse that your kicking means nothing. I like using the hip exercise for horses that are inexperienced and possibly just locked up emotionally. The stop/start exercise is great for horses that have learned to ignore their riders. Hope this helps! **** Question:
I'm having a heck of a time saddling my mare --I'm half way through Level 2 Parelli, but nothing is working. I play lots of Friendly Game (sacking her out), put the saddle on, all is well -- but as soon as I reach under for the girth, she walks off or moves sideways. Sometimes I make her move forward more than she wants to, or sometimes I move her backwards or sideways instead. If she lets me bring the girth up, I don't immediately buckle it up but will drop it back down and rub her. I've done everything I can to be respectful and it's just like she shuts down, stops thinking, and starts reacting whenever I reach for the girth. ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much. ~Valery Answer:
Hi Valery- What you are describing is a "cinchy" horse. She may be cinchy without a cinch being anywhere around. Before trying to pull the cinch under her belly, she should be able to be touched with your hand all over, including her belly, without moving or flinching. This is part of the sacking out process. If you feel she is too dangerous to touch under there with your hand, then use the tip of your Carrot Stick. If she moves off while you are touching her there, then try your best to keep touching her until she stops. When she stops, take your hand or stick away and praise her. Keep using this process until you can touch her without her moving away. Build up slowly. Don't start with your goal, but rather break it down by starting with what you already can do or what she will tolerate, and then build on that. Once she is able to be touched with your hand, towels, plastic bags, brushes, etc., then you are ready for the next step. With her halter on, take a cotton lead rope and drape it over her withers. Reach underneath and bring it under her girth. Pull it from both ends, one down and one up, so it tightens around her. Remember, start out light and progress to heavier over the course of the lesson. Once she accepts that at a standstill, do it while she moves. Pull and release. Always give her a release so she doesn't feel trapped. Now you can proceed to the saddle using the same technique. Place the pad on, then the saddle. Bring the cinch up and then let it down. Do this several times until she accepts it without moving. Now slip the latigo through the ring of the cinch. Pull the latigo up and then release. Do this several times until she accepts this as well. Now cinch her up tight and then immediately uncinch her. Do this several times. Once she accepts this, move on. When you are ready to ride her, start from the beginning. Saddle her and lightly cinch her up. Walk her around a bit, then cinch her up a little more. Repeat this at least one or two more times until she is tight enough to mount. The main thing you are going to be working on is desensitizing her to things, including your hand, under her girth area. The main objective is to repeat what you're doing until she is willing to stand. If she doesn't hold still, don't try to make her move or get frustrated, just do your best to keep touching her there until she stops, and then release and praise her. Hope this helps. ~Raye **** Question:Hi, I have a 3 1/2yr old QH red roan and he has a thing where we can't put him in with other horses or ride with any other horses because he strikes out and will fight and fight till we break it up! What do I do? This happens in the arena and in pasture and made both horses bleed! ~Kayla Answer:Hi Kayla- I’m assuming your horse is a gelding. If not, then I would geld him. If he is a gelding, then you need to get him to be more comfortable with other horses. If he only strikes out when he and other horses sniff noses, then don't allow that to happen. Instead, ride your horse with a purpose, which will keep his attention on you. An excellent exercise I like to use is called 'serpentines.' The name is a little misleading because it suggests you are going to ride in a pattern -- but you’re not. All you need to do is change your horse’s direction every 2 to 3 seconds using just one rein at a time. As he becomes softer and softer, then start asking for his head to come down toward his chest -- still only using one rein. When he switches directions effortlessly and without raising his head, you can start riding with two reins. The key through the whole exercise is adding pressure until you get the desired result, and then immediately releasing the pressure. You can start this exercise at a walk, but progress to a trot as soon as you are comfortable. Practice this exercise alone in the arena or pasture without any other horses around until you feel you have great control over him. Once you are comfortable with your control, ride into the arena with one or two other horses who are not threatening to him and work with this exercise. Have riders on the other horses doing the same exercise. If you stay focused on the exercise, you will find that your horse will have more attention on you than the other horses. Also, he will be riding toward and away from the other horses, which will help build his confidence. As other horses approach him, and then turn away, he will be thinking that he just moved them off, which in turn builds his confidence. He finds out that the other horses are not really chasing him. Most horses with your described behavior in the arena are usually the less dominate ones. They are a lot like bullies and are just putting on a front. Aggression in the pasture is another story. There, you are not in control of the situation. To introduce him to the herd will take special accommodations that you may or may not be willing or able to make. First, find him a buddy horse that he will tolerate. Put them in paddocks side by side with a fence between them. After a day or two, you should be able to let them out together in a pasture. Once they have settled in (about 2 days) you can introduce the other horses one at a time in the same fashion, giving a couple of days for each new horse. Typically, after a few days the hierarchy is established and things settle down. During this introduction period I suggest you remove everybody's hind shoes at the very least. On rare occasions, you may have an aggressive horse who just doesn’t get along well with others regardless of what you do. This horse will have to be pastured separately if possible. Raye **** Question:My horse will take her saddle and all just fine, but when I get on it's a whole new story. She either stands there and won't walk, or she bucks and frog hops till I’m on the ground. I own 2 horses, one 13 hand mix breed and a 14 hand appy/arabian. The appy cross is the one I am having trouble with. Both my horses are mares and the smaller one is the alpha mare. Would it help if I separated them while trying to break this mare? Please give me plenty of tips... I am so lost... thanks a bunch -James Answer:Hi James- Thanks for your question. I’m a little confused as to what you mean by separating them. If they are in the same pen while you are training, then by all means separate them. If you mean they share the same pasture or pen outside of training time, then I wouldn’t worry about it. Now on to our problem. Your horse accepts the saddle fine but she “locks up” or bucks once you are in the saddle. First, make sure your saddle fits well. A horse in pain will try a lot of things to get rid of the pain. Second, you need to have a cue that will disable the lock-up and buck. In other words, you need to have control of her hips. Once you have control of her hips, it is much more difficult for her to buck or even run off. To teach her to disengage her hips, start by having her walk around with the saddle on. Before climbing on a horse I will check to see if they are responding to my cues willingly. I’ll ask a horse to walk forward, then I’ll pick up the left rein asking the right hip to move to the right. The left front foot should stop and pivot. This is disengaging the hindquarters. When the hip starts to move to the right and the left front foot has stopped and pivoted, release the pressure on the rein. Then immediately cue the horse with the rein to back up a couple of steps. The disengagement and back up are two separate cues, but the angle you pull the reins is the same as though you were in the saddle. Their neck should be soft and supple, not stiff. Remember, do not release the pressure until you get what you’re asking for. If you do, you are teaching your horse that the wrong answer is right. Once your horse is doing this smoothly, you are ready to move on. Now that your cue to disengage and back up is solid from the ground, it’s time to practice climbing up and down from the horse without getting in the saddle. Start by just stepping up in the stirrup but not throwing a leg over. Once your horse accepts this from both sides, throw a leg over and then climb right back off. Work on both sides. Every time you dismount move your horse’s hips as before to make sure they are “unlocking.” When a horse is left in one place during an exercise like mounting and dismounting, they tend to build up nervousness. If left too long, when they do move they explode. Moving them helps to dissipate that nervous energy. Once you are able to mount and dismount from both sides, you’re ready to ask your horse to move from the saddle. I ask the hip to do the moving first. I pick up one rein and ask just for the hip to move over a couple of steps. Once the hip moves, I will release pressure on the rein. Work whichever side you are most comfortable with, and then try the other side. Pretty soon you can ask the horse to move their hips over; as soon as they move, loosen the rein and they will start moving forward. Use gentle cues to progress. If you ever feel as though your horse is going to start bucking, use ONE REIN to bend their head to whichever side is easiest and disengage the hip until they settle down. This is very important: If you pull back on two rein, you will not win for two reasons - your horse is much stronger than you, and her head will remain in a position where she has the ability to both buck and rear. Work this solution until your horse walks off freely. If your horse ever gets sticky with the hip, use your inside leg to help move it over. My only concern is that because you have come off your horse several times in the past she may have figured out that bucking is the best solution. If this is the case, then you should find professional help to get you through this. Good luck, I hope this helps. -Raye Lochert Labels: Ask the Experts, raye lochert
Ask the Expert: Steve Rother
Steve Rother is no longer available for questions, but you can read his previous answers below. Question: Hi Steve,I have a 14 year old mare that is ridden with a mechanical hackamore. Currently she is in a dry corral and fed hay. Our pasture was just planted and is too tender for horses just yet. When we are riding her and she sees grass she heads straight for it and starts eating. It takes terrific strength to pull up her head and get her going again even though her buddy is far ahead of her.Any suggestions on how to train her out of this bad habit will be greatly appreciated. Thank you! -Carlene Answer:
Horse Eats Grass On The Trail...
Thank you for the question regarding your horse. This is a very common issue that many people have, as our horses love to eat. I have ridden some in the type of terrain that you are talking about. This is a tough situation, as the vegetation is right at nose height most of the time. This can be very tempting, even for a seasoned veteran. All things considered, this isn’t that big of an issue, especially in this terrain. There are a few things that you could try though.
One: Lead the ride with your horse, every time that he chooses to eat trot him forward as you don’t have a space to do much else with him. You may have to do this several times over and over to remind him. Two: Test this out on the ground before your ride. Are you able to lead him down the trail a ways and have him not eat the grass? If he does this while you are leading him. Give him a flick of the lead rope with a waving motion and discourage him to have his head down. Time it so that it contacts him right as he touches the grass, so that he thinks that the grass is doing this. Caution, don’t try to pull his head up once he begins to eat, he will just try to pull harder against you. Using the waving motion of the lead instead. Three: Try the same thing from the saddle, use your rein to bump him as he touches the grass. Again don’t pull on him, bump him as his lips touch the grass. If he persists in trying, bump him gradually harder and harder until he decides that it is not worth his time. Hang in there, as hunger, and taste buds can cause a horse to try very hard to get away with things.
Four: Let your horse eat the grass for about five minutes. Let him fill some of his appetite. Then ride on. Maybe in another 30 minutes let him eat some more. Turn eating grass into a cue that works for the both of you. **** Question: Hi Steve,My family and I are going to be attending a horse camp in June. One of the requirements of the camp is to only use a snaffle bit. I use a snaffle bit on our colt, however, my daughter uses a Billy Allen Mylar bit, with great success, on her 16 year old QH. We have both found this to work so much better than a snaffle on this particular horse. If I had my druthers, I'd love to be able to ride bridle less, but don't think I am experienced enough to handle that. Can you please explain the philosophy of only using a snaffle? I'm sure there is a good reason and that it is an involved subject. Thanks, Pat
Answer:
Hello Pat,
Thank you for your email. If I could only take one bit out of my tack room in a fire, it would be a snaffle bit. The snaffle bit allows for the most communication options with a horse compared to most other bits. In addition it is a one to one pressure ratio, so it is the most comfortable on a horse, if used properly. The idea is that we want to use pressure without pain. That is what most Myler bits are based on. The problem is that it does take time to teach a horse to ride properly in a snaffle bit. It takes the use of good hands, and many exercises to gain the proper communication level and softness from the bit. A concept that I teach is that the key to vertical flexion, is lateral flexion. A snaffle bit allows for good lateral flexion, where many shanked bits don’t. There are mainly only good for the vertical flexion part. In the end, I encourage people to ride in whatever they are most comfortable with. But I let them know that unless they can get there horse riding well in a snaffle bit that they may be just covering up some issues that might come back to bite them in the end. Do take time to make this transition, you might start out in a round pen with a snaffle for a while, rather than out on the trail. Just in case the horse is basing his respect level on the bit, rather than the rider.
Best of luck…remember the most important thing is to be safe, and have FUN! ****
Question: I have a problem I was hoping you may help me with. I just started working with a 2 yr old gelding that is fairly green. He is saddle broke but has nil for ground manners. He is not mine but his owner is...not experienced enough to deal with a baby. My problem is of course his ground manners. Now I have worked with many before and haven’t had too many problems with respect and space. Unfortunately this new barn has no round pen or even a small sized paddock to work in, so it makes things harder. But now to my real problem: This horse's name is Mischief. He has NO respect for space whatsoever. Now usually I can fix this but he is different from the rest. Not only does he walk over you whenever he feels, but if you push on him while walking, swing a rope, tap him with anything to get him to move over, he CHARGES through you. Most, I find, move away from the poke of a lunge whip or stick. But even show him that and he charges. On my first day with him he charged the lunge whip and snapped it clean in half on his way to flattening me. He obviously has a dislike for anything...sticklike. I asked his owner if he had been abused with anything at all and she said no. He hasn’t any bad responses like head shyness, nervousness or sucking in his gut when I pet him. He does not do this in a mean way...no ears pinned teeth bared...he’s just determined. I have made slight progress with leading, he now stops whenI stop, not 10 feet after. But I can’t for the life of me figure out a way to lunge him without him charging in. Nothing keeps him out there. He leads alright now but even if I am on a long lead rope and let it unfurl as I walk slowly distancing myself, as soon as he figures there’s a circle involved, nutso horse. So I am stumped, I will continue to work on the ground with leading, backing etc, but without somewhere to really turn him loose and work with him I am afraid I wont be able to help him....ah! so please if you have a moment any tips would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you bunches, Meredith Answer: It sounds like you are in a bit of a tough spot with your horse. There is a phrase that I live by a lot of the time… "Cause the wrong thing to be difficult, allow the right thing to be easy." Every horse is different. What is difficult to some is still easy for others. You have to adjust to fit each situation, and each horse. Another statement I will give you that might help… "Sometimes you have to do some things that you have never done, to get the things that that you have never had." Step one: Make a plan before you get to your horse. Your current plan is not working…so make a new one. Maybe you could carry a tarp or a big exercise ball, something that he might not want to run through - something that he is not familiar with. You should have been able to just use your stick, but it looks like you purchased the wrong kind if it simply broke in two. So get some decent equipment, the safety of you and your horse depend on it. Step two: Get to his feet sooner. You are letting him get way to close before you make the correction. Ask for him to respect you in his stall before you halter him, then in the barn alley, then at the gate, then 10 ft into the arena, etc… Be more on top of things before they get bad. Respect comes from moving his feet forwards, backwards, left, and right. So practice these directions often. Step three: Stay on course and follow through. He needs to yield no matter what. Don’t just stop after he stops coming at you. He needs to yield backwards and sideways for quite a distance before you let your pressure up. His release needs to come when he is going away, not coming towards you. Step four: Come to a clinic. We get horses like this all the time. It would be much easier to just show you and get your horse started on a few of these things. He may already see you as a person that he can disrespect when he wants to. I can help you to become a better leader under these circumstances. This appears to be a very unsafe situation. The safety of you and your horse is always the first priority. Best of Luck!
Steve Rother Labels: Ask the Experts, steve rother
Ask the Expert: Alice Trindle
 Alice was born on a ranch in eastern Oregon, the only daughter in a family of five brothers. She learned to ride behind the back of the saddle holding on to her brother's belt loops. In the past 15 years Alice has studied with horsemen such as Tom Dorrance, Ray Hun, Dennis Reis, and Bettina Drummon. She conducts clinics in OR, WA, CA, and ID, and offer multi-day horsemanship retreats at her ranch in eastern OR. http://www.tnthorsemanship.com/ Read Alice's past NWHS articles
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Question:
Hi,
I'm writing a Western story and need some simple info.
Does a horse like, and/or will it eat, a banana if offered, as one would offer an apple?
Thanks, --Steve
Answer: Yes, most horses will happily eat a banana. Best of luck with your story!
~The NWHS Staff
Question:I am the owner of a small palomino stud.He stands 14.2 hands high.My wife and i noticed one morning that he had gotten out of the pasture.The only gait leading to the dry lot and pasture was chained shut.However the bottom wire of the fencing is about 2 feet from the ground.Is it possible he crawled under? Answer:Alice is on the road doing clinics right now, so the Northwest Horse Source staff got together to answer your question: It is entirely possible that your stud crawled under the fence. Most horses of his height can also jump over a 6' fence if they're really motivated. If you are determined to keep him a stud rather than gelding him, he is going to do his best to get out. Whatever type of fencing you use, make sure it is horse-safe. Many types of wire can be dangerous, especially if the horse gets a hoof caught in any kind of mesh. Best of luck,The NWHS Staff Question: I have a 12 year old QH gelding that is very aggressive, he likes to lunge out and bite other horses around him for no reason. I have tried many different things to stop this behavior but nothing works. How can I stop this nasty behavior?
Chrissy
Answer: Dear Chrissy,
Thanks for your question regarding the aggressive 12 yr. old gelding. It is frustrating and intimidating to try and ride in a group when your horse has a sour attitude and acts out like a very crabby teenage boy! Sounds like you have tried a number of options, but so far you are not reaching this wayward child. Here are some things I would think about, and then try to search for solutions: First, just like with the teenage boy, I would start by trying to understand "why" he is lashing out. Is he intimidated in a group, feeling claustrophobic and confined? Where is he in his herd pecking order or previous herd situations? If he has always been at the bottom of the pack, he may simply be saying, "Not any more...if I act like a bully they will leave me alone!" Check out the physical pain possibilities too. I know that when my back hurts, or my underwear creeps up, I am not very pleasant to be around!
After analyzing some of the possible causes, overlaid with the symptoms or how he reacts to them, then look a good solutions. If you decide that he is intimidated in the herd and needing to act like a bully to survive (in his mind), then the answer is finding ways where he can gain self-confidence and stay safe in the herd. Here is where your leadership and creativity come into clear focus. See if you can find a few friends to ride with you, and arm them with some horse treats in their pockets. Make sure that they are aware of their role in helping your horse to become more brave, and for him to begin to trust your leadership skills to keep him safe, even in the herd situation. They must be able to keep their horses with them too - between the legs and reins, and in control. Begin by riding some single column maneuvers (see my articles on Group Riding: tnthorsemanship.com/articles). When you stop, have one of your buddies ride up and give your gelding a little treat, pet him, and tell him he is a good boy. Next, try some of the group riding patterns riding in a column of two. Again, try to be there just before he goes to lunge or kick - keeping him well in check between your legs and the reins. Stop and have your riding partners give your gelding a treat. Finally, try some riding patterns in a column of three, with your fella in the middle. Guess what...when you stop, reward him with a treat from each of your riding partners, and lots of praise.
Chrissy, this is just one idea to help set it up so that your gelding begins to think that being in the herd, under your guidance, is a pretty good place to be! He gets treats and finds comfort when he is playing well with others.
Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes. We sure hope to see you in one of clinics this year. We do lots of group riding in almost every clinic, so it might just be a great opportunity to work a little more on developing a herd savvy, and herd safe horse.
Happy Trails,Alice Trindle
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Question:
Hi Alice,I have enjoyed your answers to questions, so here is my question for you. I have always been amazed at western pleasure horse shows on how slow their lopes or canters are. I have asked many trainers and people how to slow down my horse because he is like a "Mach-chicken". At times the fence post are a blur and I need a face shield to keep the bugs out of my teeth. I don't need the lope so slow he looks wounded but anything is better than bouncing off the walls.
Answer:
Dear Mary,Thanks for your readership of the articles in Northwest Horse Source Magazine and for your recent question. So let's talk about a slow canter...Perhaps the answer to your question about how to develop a slower canter or 3-beat gait in your horse is to set it up so he has a desire to slow down. In other words, ask yourself how you could set it up so that the idea to slow down in the canter was the horse's idea - not developed out of force, but out of desire! This sounds easy, but coming up with creative ways, that keep you and the horse safe in the process, can be difficult. Here are some ideas that have worked for me: Uphill and Team Work My favorite method of working on canter, where the energy comes from a thrust in the hind quarters, is utilizing a nice long uphill incline. If your horse is just wanting to run up the hill, find a friend with a slower horse, put them in front, and then keep your horse behind him. Make sure both you and your friend are aware that the horse in front may tell the 'speeder' to "slow down" with body language such as ears back, tail swishing, and even a little kick up.Liberty Work and Liberty Work in the Herd. I don't want to kill the enthusiasm your horse has for "GO"! This is a good thing. I hate to see some of those western pleasure horses that have no joy. Often times, allowing my horses to get out and romp a bit in some liberty work, particularly in a herd, helps free up their mind, and ultimately prepare them to follow my leadership.Transitions, Transitions, Transitions. Seems that we can easily put off asking our horse to canter, when every time we do they take off like a jack rabbit! The answer is to NOT put off the canter work, but do many, many transitions before you ask. Walk-trot, Trot-walk; Fast-trot, Slow-trot; Fast-walk, Medium-trot; Ride these on a circle, on straight lines, on diagonals in leg-yield and half-pass postures; Ride them on a clover-leaf pattern. Finally, ask for the canter, picturing it in your mind as a slow, waltz, 3-beat. BREATHE!! If the horse rushes into the canter, bring him back to the trot, and do more transitions. When he takes a nice slow jump into the slow canter...QUIT!! Praise him, pet him, maybe even give him a little treat, and put him away! Next time, start the whole routine over, but ask for the canter earlier and earlier in the routine. You will also bring to ask him to maintain the slow canter a little longer. Soon, you can add canter transitions to the routine. ( i.e. Trot-canter; Canter-halt-Canter; and rating of the speed within the canter - fast, slow, medium.)Mary, I hope this gives you some ideas on how to make your idea of a slow canter, be your horse's idea too! Hope to see you in one of our clinics on the road, or at a retreat here at the ranch. Let me know how things turn out.
Respectfully,Alice Trindle
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Question:
Dear Alice, i just got a new barrel horse who is very flinchy and doesn't seem to trust me much. I've had him for about a month and have been grooming and riding him every other day. Could you give me some tips or an exercise for me to build his trust in me?
~Maddy
Answer:
Dear Maddy, Thanks for your question regarding your new barrel racing horse, seeking some ways to help him trust you. That seems like a small question, but it really is a BIG one, and the foundation of what we are all trying to achieve with our horse/human relationships. Horses have taught me that trust is something that you earn, which takes time, patience, consistency, clarity, and a huge amount of respect. Unfortunately trust is also easily lost, often just by our very human mistakes, and it can take a long time to recover. All that being said, I think the basis of building a trusting relationship is by starting with mutual respect.Not knowing the back ground of your horse I might assume that since he has been asked to race barrels, with a very quick expenditure of speed, over a short period of time, that he might have a hard time knowing when he needed to be "hyped-up" and ready to go, and when he could just relax. Your job is to be very clear with your intentions, both in the saddle and on the ground, with what you are asking of him. Start by reviewing your "Horseman's Protocol" (i.e Become present and BREATH; Think and focus - which prepares your body language and sets it up for the horse; Then, allow the horse to find the right answer; Finally REWARD the slightest try). Going through this series of steps, on what ever maneuver you may be asking of the horse, will build on your leadership skills and develop mutual respect. Soon, with practice and consistency, you won't have to be mechanical about accomplishing this protocol and it will come naturally to you. By that time, the horse will be relying on your good judgement and recognize that if he follows your clear intentions and suggestions, then life is easier. He will begin to TRUST your leadership. I love riding a horse that I can go from "0" to "50" in a 5 seconds, then come back to a halt and stand there talking to my human friends about the weather! Developing trust is about getting the horse to want to be WITH you, and that starts by developing mutual respect. There are number of good articles I have written with Northwest Horse Source Magazine that give you some very specific ground school and riding exercises to help develop your leadership qualities. You can find those on my web site: www.tnthorsemanship.com/articles Of course, we'd love to see you in one of our clinics or at a retreat here at the ranch. The new 2007 schedule will be on the web site soon. Thanks for writing with your question. Happy Trails! Alice Trindle Labels: alice trindle, Ask the Experts
Ask the Expert: Dr. Cheryl Lopate
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Dr. Lopate received a BS in Animal Science from Colorado State University in 1984 and a Masters Degree in Reproductive Physiology in 1987 from The Ohio State University. She graduated from The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine in 1991. She practiced in a rural mixed practice in Minnesota from 1991 to 1995, then went on to complete a residency in comparative theriogenology (reproduction) at Purdue University from 1995 to 1997 and was board certified in Theriogenology in 1997. She continued to teach clinical reproduction at Purdue University Veterinary Hospital for 2.5 more years, and then returned to clinical practice, providing primarily reproductive care for horses and companion animals until she opened her own reproduction specialty practice in November of 2003.
***** Question: I was wondering if horses can get pregnant in September?
Answer: Mares are called seasonally polyestrous. This means that during the long daylight months they will cycle repeatedly. In the spring and fall they go through periods of transition. During the transitional periods, they will appear to still cycle, but they do not ovulate. In order to get pregnant, the mare must ovulate. Each mare will enter her transitional period at a slightly different time period than another mare. The normal breeding season of the mare is May – September. So it is likely that your mare will still be cycling (and ovulating) in September, but if she enters transition early, she may not be. The best plan is to have her checked by a veterinarian when you are ready to breed her to see if she is still cycling or if she has entered transition. This can be determined by a combination of rectal palpation and ultrasound examination of the mare’s reproductive tract. Remember that if you breed your mare in September, she will foal in August the following year, which here in the Pacific Northwest is often the hottest month of the summer and therefore the hardest on a newborn foal. For this reason, many people don’t breed in September in our area. Good luck! Cheryl Lopate, MS, DVM Labels: Ask the Experts, cheryl lopate
Ask the Expert: Dr. Richard Vetter
 Dr. Vetter graduated from WSU College of Veterinary Medicine in 1975. He is licensed to practice in both WA and OR and is available in other states. Dr. Vetter's specialty is in equine dentistry. He is a frequent guest speaker for horse groups on the topic of Advanced Equine Dentistry. His assistant (and riding partner) on and off the job is his wife of many years, Kathy. ***** Question: Our 3 yr old AQHA filly has what looks like an abscess on her lower jaw. There is some drainage and a lot of swelling. The swelling started a while back, firm to the touch, and we thought she was just getting new teeth. Could this be an abscessed retained cap?
Answer:
The place to start with this case is a full mouth exam done under sedation utilizing a full mouth speculum, a good light source and a dental mirror and probe. This exam might indicate a retained deciduous premolar tooth, commonly called a “cap”, that could be the primary problem or that might be interfering with the eruption of the permanent tooth. The “growth bumps” commonly seen on the lower jaw at this time, mark the locations of the “roots” of the lower teeth. These roots can be very susceptible to trauma at this time and that could also be a consideration. Radiology may be needed to thoroughly assess a problem of this nature. Labels: Ask the Experts, richard vetter
Ask the Expert: Barb Apple
 Barb Apple has a lifetime of experience with horses. She is a natural teacher who learned from the best of the best: Tom Dorrance, Pat Parelli, Jack Brainard and many others. She is an expert at helping people understand horses. Working with people and their horses is more than a job for Barb, it is her passion. Featured at several expos around the country and in years of clinics from coast to coast, Barb and her horses have touched many hearts. She is more than a horse trainer - she's a master horseman and instructor. Barb Apple is a master of communication, understanding the horse, and most importantly, teaching others how to fully experience their horses.
***** Question:
Last year once and now this August, my 7 yr. old Tennessee Walking Horse was doing her running walk on fairly smooth roads, and she fell hard on her knees and then flopped over on her left side. The first time my collar bone broke. Last time I got hurt, but nothing broke. The first time I thought perhaps she tried to stop suddenly as another horse was next to her and its riders turned the horses head back, I thought she might have got her legs tangled. This last time the dogs were trying to follow me (I was riding alone0 and I was trying to hurry as I didn't want them to follow. Now I am wondering why this is happening. The vet seemed to thing she is just a young horse and isn't keeping track of where her feet are. I would like to keep her, but now I am wondering, Is this going to happen again? I don't want to get hurt again. Have you ever heard of this, if not can you find out for me? Perhaps she could get some training in foot work,
I have had her on difficlut rocky mt.trails and no problem.
Other then her shying at sudden objects, this is the only problem I have with her.
Can you help me?
Answer: I have had Walkers for over 20 years and I, too, had one that went down several times. I started this horse as a 3-year-old and had him for several years before selling him. He did get better and the folks who bought him still have him. He is 22 and going strong. Unfortunately, it is not an uncommon problem with Walkers, particularly the larger, rangy types.
I also found he was a gem in the mountains and in difficult terrain, where he was really tuned into his feet. However, it was on the flat or in arenas that he was most apt to stumble. My husband was a shoer, and by changing the length of toe and speeding up the front or back (depending), we were able to help him get out of his own way.
Over-reaching can be a problem with some. Exercising him over logs or cavaletti and working with the back-up did help him learn to balance and make him more aware of his feet.
I also found that if I kept him awake and with me he did better than when I just let him have his head down at a lazy walk. He did improve as he aged and learned to carry himself well. I have another client who had the same difficulty with her Walker tripping, but in his case it did not matter what ground he was on. It turned out he has a pinched nerve in his neck and she had to retire him. She took him to Pilchuck Vet Hospital in Snohomish, WA, where it was diagnosed.
The last two things I might mention are to have a chiropractor take a look at her. There may be a few simple adjustments that might make a world of difference. It has been my experience that body work can do amazing things: energy work, chiropractic and nutrition. Second, I suggest you check your saddle and be sure it is not pinching her shoulders. If so, move it back a little or check saddle fit.
I hope this will be of help.
-Barb Apple Remember “Horse Play” is FUN!
*****
Question: Is it possible for a horse to become barn sour overnight? My 15 yr. old gelding was a great trail horse up until about two weeks ago. He would go out nice and calm and come back nice and calm. I have taken him out for the last five times now and he goes out nice and calm but on the way back he now gets all pumped up and prancy until he reaches a spot he knows is close to home and then he will go back to a walk. How do I get him out of this before I get hurt? If I try to make him stand still to get him to calm down, he will start backing up real fast to avoid the bit. What can I do? Answer: Barn Sour or “Barn Sweet” horses can be a real pain for sure. It is unusual to have it happen all of a sudden, however. The first question I would ask: is the last bit where he starts acting up on a downhill? If so, then I would want to check out back or hock issues. He may have developed a sore back or hocks for some reason of late, and going downhill hurts. If that is not an issue, then I would try the following:
Next time you ride, put a halter under your bridle and bring along some treats, such as hay pellets or a carrot or two. Or, if there is grass in the area where you ride, just bring a good book for you. At the point you are getting ready to turn around to head back to the barn, stop, get off, take his bridle off, and give him the treats or let him eat while you read your book and relax. Just enjoy this time with him. The idea is to make being away from the barn a “sweeter” place than the barn. This might take a few times, but seems to work well for most horses. I have even taken the saddle off at this “picnic point” and really made it a nice place to be. One more little trick: when your horse starts to prance, turn him around so he is pointing away from home, then back him up toward home. Do not force this back-up; just spread your arms to keep him from turning and allow the energy he already has to carry him backward. If he does not understand, ask him to back. After several steps backward, turn and see if he would like to walk toward the barn. If not, turn him again and back even further toward home. He will still get to go home, just backward! Do not make this a punishment – it should be done with a smile and good humor, saying to him, “I agree…let’s go home, but let’s have fun with it!” Hopefully he will not think this is so much fun, however, and will agree to walk after a few tries. Hope this gives you some ideas. “Horse Play” is FUN! Barb Apple
* * *
Question: We moved six months ago. My 22 year old would sleep in her stall, my 12 year old not at all. Now they have larger stalls, but both sleep outside. This is not good. they need to not sleep in the mud, dust and cold. How can I change this habit? I cannot lock them in all night.
Sincerely, Fran
Answer: Dear Fran,
I know how frustrating it can be to watch horses stand in the wind-driven rain all hunkered down just yards away from a nice dry stall or lean-to. For us, it seems totally illogical; however, for the horse, the place they prefer to be is where they feel most comfortable and safe. You are so right not to lock them up in a place they do not feel safe.
I can relate to your feelings as I watch my mare doing the same thing. A couple months ago my gelding had to be put down. Now my mare will not go anywhere near the shelter that before, she lived in day after day during rain and wind. When it rains or the wind blows she cannot hear well. When there were two horses one of them could keep a watch on the woods if a deer, bear, etc. was wandering around. She felt safer with my gelding to share the watch. I bought her a good rain sheet and now she can stand or lie where ever she feels most safe and be warm.
It is hard to remember that our dear horse friends are really still wild horses at heart. They are only comfortable when they feel SAFE. For whatever reason, your horses do not feel as safe in their new location as they did in the old one. It is good to remember that horses were not built by nature to wear clothes and be in buildings. This might work fine for them if they feel safe but if not, they will do what they need to do to protect themselves from what they perceive as dangers such as predators, sounds, smells, falling limbs or trees in the wind, etc.
As far as their sleeping in mud, dust, or cold:
o They do not usually care about sleeping in dust as they take dust baths to get rid of insects or just scratch their body. It can even be a herd social event.
o The cold does not usually bother them if it is dry, but in wet and windy climates a good quality, breathable rain sheet will usually be enough.
o As far as the mud, it is up to us to provide a place where they can get out of it. I bring in a large load of sand and do not level it so my horses have a hill of sand to lie on. They really seem to like it and it brushes off easily.
o Mud management is important and there are many different ways to control it. Alayne Blickle, from Horses for Clean Water, has many excellent suggestions (www.horsesforcleanwater.com)
o If they are comfortable to go in the stalls, I would recommend feeding them there if you are not already. It may help them to adjust in time.
o Last of all, if we force horses to be in stalls when they would prefer to be out, we are creating unnecessary stress for them that can lead to all kinds of problems: behavior issues, nervousness, and certainly conditions that expose them to becoming susceptible ulcers. Horses were not designed to be in a 12x12 area with no way to release tension, energy and have room to express themselves. Good for you, Fran, for not locking them in.
You may find that after a few more months of adjusting they might just decide to sleep in their stalls after all. But in the meantime, honor their feelings and provide the best—mud free—environment you can. They will appreciate it.
Remember “Horse Play” is FUN!
~Barb Apple
***
Question: Hay, I have an Appaloosa named Jezza and she's headshy. I'm not sure how to comunicate with her to NOT be headshy. Well, i've had some of my friends who deal with horses tell me some ways to show her that I'm not a human that would hurt her. I think that her last owners abused her or something... I haven't had her that long. And I'm 12 years old, a rider that REALLY wants to ride. And since i'm not able to put a halter on her easily or by myself, I CAN'T RIDE! So as you can see i'm pretty unhappy. So since you're an expert, I'm asking you to tell me a method or help me to train her not to be headshy. Bcuz obviously I'm lost... Thanks
Answer: When a horse is worried about their ears or poll being touched, it certainly can cause some problems. One of the ways horses learn is by what we call "release." In other words, when you quit doing what you are doing, they know their action that must be what you wanted. So we are going to teach the horse that when she holds her head still and lets you touch her ears and poll, you will quite touching.
Start by rubbing her neck, stroking her from the shoulder toward her head, but stop just short of causing her to duck her head or get worried. Keep rubbing till she relaxes, then stop a moment. Next, rub up toward her head a little at a time, but make long strokes so they still go back to the lower neck each time. If you get a little reaction near her head, then keep holding your hand there as best you can until she holds her head still, then remove your hand. If the reaction is BIG, you have advanced to far too soon. In time, she will get that if she holds her head still, you will remove your hand. You can then rub a little closer and then quickly retreat to the lower part of her neck where she is okay, then repeat. This is called the “advance and retreat method.” Each time, rub closer to the ear and then quickly retreat just before she reacts; keep doing it until she discovers that you are not going to hurt her. Then start staying longer near her head until the little reaction goes away. Repeat this over and over until you have advanced clear to her ears. This may take days. Do not do too much at one time or it will not work well.
Be patient. This will not be fixed overnight, so take your time and talk to her while you do this. Just enjoy her company. Try not to be sneaky when you rub her neck--rub it with confidence like you know all is well. This will transfer to her. If you continue this process each time until you can finally rub between her ears and touch them, then you are ready to do the same thing with a little rope or soft cloth in your hand. Start at the base of the neck again, as you did in the beginning, and do the entire process again. Then when this is fine, go to a bigger rope, then the halter. Often, treats can be helpful but must be used with understanding. When the session is all done, put a treat in a pan on the ground for her. Take your time and remember to just spend time hanging out with her so she can know and trust you.
~Barb Apple * * * Question: Hi Barb.
1. I am 66 year old beginner and just getting married to a 64 year
young lifetime natural horse lady. I read a book suggesting I find a
natural trainner who could teach me to ride, help pick my horse and
learn horsemanship from on a continuing basis. I live in Redmond
Washington. I am having trouble finding such a person. Do you know
someone or have a reference or suggestion how to go about this.
2. We could move after we get married (June 5th). Being older but
enjoying horses, we would like to know a spot in the Northwest that is
good horse country where the temperatures are mild enough to enjoy
riding in the winter months. Any suggestions?
Thank you. Roger
Answer: Dear Roger,
What a delight that you and your partner have found each other. And my hat is off to you both for following the trail of Natural Horsemanship. In response to your first question: There is a lady in your area Lynn Elston who is wonderful at helping the first time rider. She has been a student of mine for about 9 yrs. She has a couple lovely horses she uses for school horses and lives between Woodinville and Monroe. She has a real gift at starting the beginning rider and like me she is also a Centered Riding Instructor as well as a gifted Natural Horsemanship enthusiast. She only takes a few students a year but I think you would enjoy her.
I give lessons now and then at the covered arena owned by Lynn. I can let you know when I will be in the area if you like. I also have several students in the Redmond area so when I come to Lynn's I often go to Redmond to teach as well.
As to suitable living and riding locations I have limited knowledge, however, I moved to the Yelm area East of Olympia from Eastern Oregon a few years ago and am so happy with the weather here. It does not seem to get so cold or as much rain as the Redmond/Monroe area. I live in a 5,000 acre gated community with miles of bridle trails. There are properties to develop for sale as well as one or two with homes already on them. There are also many lovely small farmette in the Yelm Prairie Valley. This entire area seems to be a thriving horse community. Shopping and cultural events are not far away so it seems the best of many worlds for me.
I hope this will be of some help to you.
Thanks Barb
If you are interested contact me at:
horseplay1@BarbApple.com or check out my web site at www.BarbApple.com
Labels: Ask the Experts, barb apple
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